Twin Cities home services — decks, fencing, roofing & remodels

Hardwood Flooring & Refinishing

New hardwood installation plus sand-and-refinish of existing floors — including the oak under your carpet.

Hardwood flooring

Older Minneapolis and St. Paul homes are full of original white oak and maple hiding under carpet from 1978. Refinishing what is already there is usually the highest-return flooring decision available in this housing stock.

Refinishing existing floors

If the boards are sound and have enough thickness left, sanding and refinishing costs roughly a third of new hardwood and produces a better floor than most new products.

  • Full sand and refinish — drum and edge sanded to bare wood, stained, three coats of finish
  • Screen and recoat — no sanding, just abrade and add a fresh coat; a one-day, low-cost refresh for a floor that is dull but not damaged
  • Board replacement and weave-in for damaged areas and old register holes
  • Gap filling and repair of squeaks and loose boards
  • Dustless sanding with vacuum-shrouded equipment

A 3/4 inch solid floor can be fully refinished roughly 5 to 7 times over its life. Most homes we open up have plenty left.

New installation

  • Solid hardwood — 3/4 inch red or white oak, maple, hickory, ash
  • Engineered hardwood — real wood veneer over a plywood core; the correct choice over concrete slabs and in basements where solid hardwood cannot go
  • Prefinished — faster, factory-tough finish, micro-beveled edges
  • Site-finished — perfectly flat surface, seamless look, custom stain
  • Patterns — herringbone, chevron, borders and inlays

Planning ranges (Twin Cities, estimates)

WorkPer sq ft
Screen and recoat$1.50 – $3.00
Full sand and refinish$3.50 – $6.50
Refinish with custom stain$4.50 – $8.00
Solid oak, installed and finished$10.00 – $18.00
Engineered, installed$8.00 – $15.00
Prefinished, installed$8.00 – $14.00
Herringbone / pattern+$4 – $10
Board repair and weave-in$12 – $30

Estimates for planning.

Minnesota humidity is the whole ballgame

Wood moves with humidity, and the Twin Cities swings from about 15% indoor RH in January to 60% in July. That is why hardwood gaps in winter and tightens in summer — normal, not a defect.

To keep it minimal: acclimate material in the house for a week before install, keep indoor humidity between 35% and 50% year-round (a humidifier in winter is the single best thing you can do for a wood floor), and leave proper expansion space at the walls. Water-based finishes cure in 2 to 3 days versus 7 or more for oil-based, and no longer amber the way they used to.

What's included

  • Free, no-pressure estimate
  • Licensed & fully insured crew
  • Cleanup included — we leave it spotless
  • Same-day or scheduled service
  • Written quote, fair pricing
  • 24/7 emergency response

FAQ

Can my old hardwood be refinished?

Usually yes. A 3/4 inch solid floor can be sanded 5 to 7 times over its lifetime. We check the remaining thickness at a vent or a doorway before recommending it.

Is there hardwood under my carpet?

In most Twin Cities homes built before 1970, very often yes. Pull back a corner in a closet and look — it is one of the best value discoveries in an older home.

Hardwood or engineered?

Solid for main floors over a wood subfloor, since it can be refinished many times. Engineered over concrete slabs, in basements, and with radiant heat, because it is far more dimensionally stable.

Why does my hardwood gap in winter?

Dry indoor air in a Minnesota winter shrinks the wood. Keeping indoor humidity between 35 and 50 percent with a humidifier substantially reduces the gapping, and it closes back up in summer.

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